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Trip of a Lifetime: Ultimate Africa: Day 10

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November 12, 2015 – 5:48A

Slept great!  Woke up to a beautiful sunrise over the Kafue River as I sat out on our front porch wrapped up in the big white comforter from my bed.  It’s amazing how when you go to bed at night, you hardly need a sheet and when you wake up your pulling the comforter up to your chin.  Very cozy mornings.  As I was watching the sunrise and elephant appeared to my left.  It was walking right through  camp eating whatever tree branches it desired.  LOL.  Too funny.

I love hearing all the various sounds of nature in the early morning.  The shower water was hot and felt great.  Heading to breakfast with Aryn soon.  I enjoy sitting down with everyone around the long community dining table at each lodge. We chat with a hot cup of coffee and whatever breakfast is being served that morning.  OAT has truly done a great job designing this trip.

1:02P

Breakfast was a made to order omelette, oatmeal with yogurt, fruit and muffins.  My favorite fruit with the oatmeal is the papaya or “pawpaw.”  Brunch was a tasty beef and noodle stir fry.  I make sure I stake my spot at the table so I’m facing the view of the rivers.  It’s just so beautiful and so serene.

The Zambian terrain is different: more trees and they are taller.  There are some different tree species as well, one of which is called the Candelabra Tree.  It’s has a tall trunk that blooms out on top in the form of tall cactus leaves.  Very interesting.

Candelabra Tree

Candelabra Tree in Zambia’s Kafue National Park

As we continued on our morning game drive we spotted two female lions (sisters) walking amongst a grove of trees.  Both our jeeps headed towards the lions.  On our way, we caught a quick glimpse of a massive crocodile moving from the grass into the water.  Our guides pulled both jeeps right up to the female lions, turned off the engines and there we sat for the next half hour, watching these magnificent lionesses relaxing in the shade.  I noticed when we pulled up to the lions it was 8:30A and I thought to myself – if I were back home in Akron right now, I would have been at work for a half hour and my team would just be arriving.  But instead, there I sat – watching two wild lions from just a few feet away on a beautiful clear and warm morning in Zambia, Africa.  Wow!

Female Lioness

Female Lioness

Lioness

Lioness heading for he shade.

Two Female Lions

Lioness joining her sister in the shade.

Resting Lioness

Look at the size of those paws. Notice the blood stain on the bottom of her front left paw. She had just made a kill.

Just before lunch we all gathered at the entrance of the main lodge to watch a giant elephant headed our way. He had just entered the camp to snack on some grass followed by leaves from a tall palm tree.  It’s amazing how graceful these animals are considering their mammoth size.  I took a brief video but Natasha was quick to step out of her lodge to warn us to step back and some of the men from the staff appeared and shoo’d the elephant away.

Now I’m sitting at the desk in our “tent” looking out at the Kafue River.  It’s a hot day in the sun but cool in the shade.

2:40P

Resting in our tent to escape the afternoon sun.  I converted my tan Eddie Bauer pants into shorts.  These were a pre-trip purchase btw.  $50 online and shipped in about 8 days.

A puku is walking between trees in the near distance.

The water on the river is shimmering like diamonds.  I may walk to the main lodge soon to enjoy the breeze coming from the water.  I’m also considering taking advantage of the pool (I didn’t think to pack swimming trunks but I can wear my UMASS gym shorts).

I just looked up to see two monkeys staring down at me from one of the trees outside.

“High tea” is at 4:30P today.

9:17P

During “high tea” Vitalis delivered a very interesting lecture on the history of Zimbabwe.  It was cool to learn that Zimbabwe shares a commonality with the United States as being the only two countries to ever break away from British rule.  The US in 1776 and Zimbabwe in 1980,  Their current president is 91 years old and has been in power since the 1960’s.

I hope I’m not jinxing myself by saying this, but I have yet to see a single mosquito.  I have, however, seen what’s called a tse tse fly.  Although I have yet to get bit by one, I hear they are quite painful.  Fastened to the front of our jeep, by aluminum wire, is an empty paint can.  On this evening’s game drive, our group opted for the local insect repellent: a log of elephant dung placed in the empty paint can and lit on fire.  This gives off a smokey incense that, apparently, repels the tse tse flies and other insects.  I was not only surprised how well it worked but that it emitted a pleasant aroma: similar to citronella.

Elephant Dung Can

Elephant Dung smoking in bucket to ward of the tse tse flies

Our evening game drive went into the night.  It’s called “spot-lighting.”  Our guide tonight was “Boyd.”  We experienced two highlights during this game drive.  One was a parade of elephants that walked right across the road in front of us.  Following along right at their feet were these white birds called cattle egrets.  They never left the parade and walked along with the elephants like they were part of the group.  Very interesting.

Elephants and Egrets

Parade of elephants and the cattle egrets following their footsteps.

Our second highlight was one of the most beautiful sunsets I’ve ever seen in my life with fan palm trees in the foreground.  We joined the other jeep and parked to watch the sunset as we enjoyed our “sundowner” drinks.  The guides always have a wonderful selection of ice cold local beer, wine, soft drinks and water.  I had a local Zambian beer called a Mosi lager.

Palm Tree Sunset

At this point the sun has nearly set

Big Zambian Sun

Another view of the sunset

I really enjoyed our conversations tonight over a steak with potatoes and vegetable dinner.  Tomorrow’s wake-up call is at 6A.  That’s “good good” news that we are able to sleep in a bit longer.

P.S.  Laundry service at these camps has been terrific. We receive our washed & pressed laundry neatly folded and tied up in a bow by a long piece of dried grass.  It is sitting out on our beds waiting for us when we return from dinner.  Everything is smelling fresh and well-pressed – including our socks.  I have never in my life had my socks ironed.  How nice!  Thank you to all the wonderful staff (at all three camps) and all their amazing behind-the-scenes work.

Good night!

Travel

Trip of a Lifetime: Ultimate Africa: Day 4

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November 6, 2015 – 12:00P

Rough night’s sleep.  My mind kept pondering over what to expect on our first game drive plus, the repetitive male lion mating call in the near distance took some getting used to.  haha!  Finally, I fell asleep sometime after 2:30A.  I woke up once to use the restroom.  Aryn had brought these mini battery operated candles that she had bought form the dollar store.  There is one beside our sink and one on the back of our toilet.  They provide a great little night light for the tent.  I was awoken this morning by native drums and a friendly “good morning” from one of our guides.  As I stretched myself into consciousness we heard a “plop” above our heads followed by a sliding sound down the pitch of our canvas roof.  We were like:  “What the heck is that?”  Then we saw a little baboon head pear over the edge of our roof into our room.  There were baboons jumping from the overhanging tree onto our roof and sliding down our roof.   They were playing!  It was hilarious.  They were also jumping down onto our stone front porch but as soon as we stood up from our beds, they left the porch.  They seem curious yet very skittish.  Much like the zebras we’ve encountered along the side of the road.

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Baboons sliding down our roof

I have a new morning routine out here in the bush:  following my shower and moisturizer I have to apply sunblock and Deet for the mosquitos.

Breakfast was simple but filling.  Then it was off to our first game drive in Chobe National Park.  Our total group (minus our trip leader) equals 15.  We go out in 2 separate jeeps.  Out guides at this camp are “Six” and “Genius.”   They’re very friendly and incredibly knowledgable.  It’s amazing how they can spot even the smallest of creatures at a distance.  What I found the most interesting on this drive was the variety of different species co-habitating together.  In the grass across the Chobe River in Namibia we saw different types of antelopes (impalas and kudus) grazing with a “dazzle” of zebras and we saw a “clan” of hyenas running behind them all.  Amazing.  Inspiring.  And very educational.

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Our game drive jeep

Our most frequent encounter on this trip were impala antelopes (mostly female).  We also saw a lot of zebra, sable antelope, cape buffalo, elephants (baby elephants are so cute btw) and get this … cows!  And they were wearing bells – no joke!  The beef industry is apparently huge in this region.  So these cows were all owned by a Namibian farmer.

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Cape Buffalo

We also saw a lot of magnificent birds and even a few monkeys.  There were also a lot of small grey & blue spotted chicken-like animals called guinea fowls.  They travelled in packs and were quick to scatter as our jeep approached.  Our guide said they were nicknamed “Chobe Chickens” and someone in our jeep (I believe Donna) asked if they were edible.  “Six” said the meat of the guinea fowl is edible but so tough that they have to be cooked for many hours over hot coals and then once the meat is cooked the natives throw away the meat and eat the coals instead (because the meat is so tough).  haha!

Guinea Fowl

Guinea Fowl aka “Chobe Chicken”

“Six” is a funny guy.  The roads of the park are dirt and extremely bumpy.  They called riding through these parks the “African massage.”  Six kept joking:  “It’s not the driver or the jeep, blame the roads.”  He was a good driver and very aware of tree branches that encroached the road.  He would slow down the jeep and raise his had to try and lift the branches up over the roof of the jeep.  He would then joke:  “I am the branch manager.”  I found this hilarious since that’s what I do for a living – branch manager of a bank.  🙂

I also learned what a termite mound was.  Very interesting.  If they were solid they are still active, the ones with holes (exposing the inner tunnels) are no longer active.  The soil from these mounds is so dense and strong it’s used to build the walls of the homes in African villages.  They range in size but are typically tower-shaped structures some thousands of years old.  For example, it takes a termite colony 100 years to build a mound the size of a soccer ball.  Very interesting.

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A 1,000 year-old termite mound

Lunch was delicious.  Had my first taste of shepherd’s pie – very tasty.  Now I’m sitting on the cement ground of our front porch at our “tent.”  Aryn is inside trying to take a nap before our 3:00P afternoon game drive and “sundowner drink.” – not sure what that is but it sounds fun!  I’m looking out at Chobe National Park.  It’s so beautiful and peaceful.  I can hear a hyena in the distance.  Before yesterday, I didn’t even know what a hyena sounded like.  Now I’m hearing them not only in person but in their natural habitat.  What a privilege.  Everything else around seems still and relatively quiet.  There is a gentle breeze that feels good amongst the, otherwise, hot air.

9:30P

Today’s afternoon/evening game drive was awesome.   Our first sighting was a “troop” of baboons around a grove of trees.  They were nestling their babies in their arms and when they walked their babies clung to their bellies and wrapped their tail around their mother’s tail.  So adorable.

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Baboon mama and her babies

Next our jeep ventured into a trio of Southern Giraffes.  Six turned off the engine and while we sat their snapping a million photos another giraffe appeared from the trees, followed by two more until we were surrounded by 20 giraffes.  They kept coming from behind trees and cross the road right in front of us to go munch on more trees on the other side.  They were watching us as closely as we were watching them.   We must have sat there, in absolute awe, for, at least, a half hour, watching this “stride” of giraffes.  It was an amazing experience that I will never forget.  So cool!

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I like that at the end of the day Vitalis briefs us on what to except the next day, including what time we need to wake up and be at breakfast.  After this briefing, our guides Six and Genius walk us to our “tents” by flashlight.  There are two guys dressed in all black that sit up along the trail leading to our tents.  Apparently, they stay up all night on guard.  They are watching for lions and leopards coming through camp.

Time for some sleep now.  It’s quieter tonight.  Mostly, I’m just hearing cicadas and crickets and the occasional baboon barking or hyena howling.  No lions tonight – as of yet.