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Trip of a Lifetime: Ultimate Africa: Day 11

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November 13, 2015 – 6:14A

Awake and showered. Feeling great! I woke up at 5:30A and laid there for about ten minutes in the cool air with the comforter over me before getting up and putting on my glasses so I could sit outside on our front porch and enjoy the peaceful view of the Kafue River here in Zambia. I had to wrap myself up in my giant white comforter because it was a bit chilly. Doesn’t look like we got any rain though. On the opposite side of the river the trees are beautifully reflected in the water. I watched a lazy crocodile silently float downstream and listened to the birds. It was such a relaxing way to start my new day.

I thought more about the people we have encountered here. They all seem so relaxed and always smiling. When you return from a game drive, for instance, and they ask you “how was it?” they seem genuinely interested in what you have to say.

I hear some hippos grunting – I think they’re coming from across the river.

Heading to breakfast now. Our first activity of the day is fishing! Very excited for this!

1:18P

What a fun day so far! I wonder what’s around the next corner (maybe another elephant – haha!)

This morning after a nice breakfast of fresh fruit, porridge and pancakes those of us who opted to go fishing got on a small boat and sailed down the Kafue River. As our guide “Golden” moved up the river looking for a good spot to fish, we saw many animals including various antelopes, birds and, of course, hippos.

Hartebeests along the Kafue River in Zambia

“Golden” was very patient with us as some of the people in the group had never fished before while the rest of us were, by no means, experts. Therefore, “Golden” had to repeat his instructions on how to cast a fishing pole several times. Haha! We fished from 7:00a till around 10:00a. “Golden” jokingly said if we don’t catch any fish we don’t eat dinner tonight! All six of us caught, at least, one fish. I lucked out and caught eight! They were all tilapia and catfish. I was so proud of myself for having caught the most.

My first catch of the day on the Kafue River in Zambia

One of the Tilapia that I caught while fishing in Zambia

The fish we caught were to be cleaned, cooked and served up with tonight’s “traditional dinner.” It was funny to be fishing and, all of a sudden, you’d see a pair of hippo eyes curiously popping up out of the water. Some of them even swam closer to our boat. Very curious creatures.

On the ride back we saw a huge crocodile crawl from the river bank into the water. What an experience to have gone fishing in Zambia! How cool is that!

During our fishing expedition the other half of our group was on a game cruise up the Lafupa River. When we returned to camp they were already there eager to inquire about our luck with fishing. We all gathered in the main lodge and relaxed on the sofas swapping stories and photos. It was so much fun. The lodge also had a nice little gift shop with some very cool stuff. I was saving my money for the open air market I knew we were going to hit up in Victoria Falls.

While everyone was relaxing, Aryn’s sister Kathryn and I got word that there was an elephant out front so we jumped up, grabbed our cameras and hurried to go see. This thing was huge. It was walking along the road into camp eating whatever trees were to its left and right. It walked from where the jeeps drop us off down to the “boma” just across from the bar. I captured a great video of the whole experience on my iPhone. This elephant wasn’t but a few meters from us and we were quickly advised to back up.

Elephant walking by the “boma” at Lafupa Tented Camp in Zambia

Me with the elephant in our camp in Zambia.

What did the bartender say when the elephant walked up to the bar?

The best part was when the elephant tried to walk between two of the buildings, he got stuck and had to back up to get out. Haha! So cool to watch.

Elephant got stuck!

After we ate lunch, Vitalis briefed us on the optional excursions in Victoria Falls and passed around a sign up sheet. I am opting to do the elephant back safari ride & rhino game drive combo and the helicopter flight over Victoria Falls. So excited for this!

Afterwards, we were released for our mid-afternoon siesta. I decided it was time to finally hit the pool and boy what a good decision. One of the ladies from our group, Rene from Wisconsin, was already there. The water was absolutely perfect. It was so nice and cool and exactly what I needed to escape the afternoon heat. Rene and I talked about previous travel experiences, our life and careers back home and future travel goals when, all of a sudden, here comes this massive elephant (probably the same elephant from before). The elephant walked right up to a palm tree beside the pool and started eating the branches and leaves. Right away, a staff member appeared to monitor the elephant. We all watched, afraid to move or make a sound, and, at one point, the elephant turned and looked directly at Rene and I. The staff member was standing by a nearby building and came forward and threw two rocks directly at the animal. It turned its head and walked away from us. Wow! That was exciting. We have all been warned that the elephants in Zambia are more aggressive towards humans due to the country’s history with poaching. We learned that elephants have incredible memories and are actually able to genetically pass these memories on to their offspring. So bad memories from the area’s past issues with poaching have been passed along to the current generation of elephants. Fascinating.

I stayed in the pool for almost an hour. A giant breeze came through which felt great against my wet skin. I didn’t even need a towel to dry off.

Now I’m relaxing on the deck of the main lodge looking out at the two rivers. This place feels like a resort! The sky is filled with beautiful white billowy clouds. Perhaps some rain is headed our way? I feel incredibly relaxed. Today is Friday the 13th.

2:40P

We are being held up at the main lodge by an elephant loitering around outside the reception area. I got some great pics and vids of him with his two left feet standing inside the boma. I guess I’ll have to wait for a while before I can go back to my room to change out of these gym shorts (that I swam in). This guy seems in no hurry to leave the camp. Going to get some more pics.

3:11P

I’m sitting on the front porch of our “tent” looking out over the river. Darker clouds are beginning to roll in and winds are really picking up to the point of creating small, gradual waves upon the river. The staff is predicting some rain. The view here is so nice that I don’t want to leave but I’d like to take a quick shower before “high tea.”

9:00P

Before heading out on our evening boat ride on the Lafupa River, one of the staff leaders, Phineas, gave us a brief history lesson on Zambia. The economically depressed situation of this country makes me so sad. Sixty percent of Zambia’s population is currently unemployed. It was also interesting to learn that the average life expectancy is only 47. This is mostly due to the spread of HIV from infidelity in some marriages. We also discussed the controversial issue of poaching since it is still a major threat here. Elephants are killed for their ivory tusks and rhinos for their horns. So very sad. All we can do is spread the support of more game viewing vs game shooting for purposes other than food.

On our boat ride up the Lafupa River we saw many hippos and a small crocodile but the majority of the time our cameras are feasting upon the awesome sunset during our “sundowner” cocktails. I was seated at the bow of the boat with my feet propped up on the railing, taking in the peaceful scenery while drinking a Mosi lager.

Relaxing during our game cruise along the Lafupa River in Zambia

Dinner around the “boma” was fun. The table tree stumps were from leadwood trees. Vitalis had me lift one of them to experience just how heavy they are. Boy was he right! It was cool eating the tilapia and catfish that we had caught. Also served, was oxtail soup in a delicious brown gravy, polenta and vegetables. The tribal entertainment (singing and drums) was awesome. The staff manager, Natasha, was so nice and wanted a goodnight hug from each of us. What a fun evening and exciting day overall. Feeling very tired. Tomorrow’s wake-up call is at 6:00a. I’m setting my alarm for 5:30a so I have time to sit on the front porch and enjoy our view of the river. Night night!

P.S. I forgot to mention I was bit by a tse tse fly during the evening boat ride. Damn! It hurt like hell. Also, there is apparently a friendly warthog, named “Lulu,” that roams the premises here in camp. She will actually come right up to you if you offer her food and eat right out of your hand. I have yet to meet her but Kathryn said she met “Lulu” and she was approachable. I want to meet Lulu! I want to take her home. Her and Louie (my pug) can run around the house snorting together. LOL 🙂

January 6, 2016 by Brian

Travel

Trip of a Lifetime: Ultimate Africa: Day 8

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November 10, 2015 – 10:35A

Lunch is being served in a half hour. I’m relaxing beneath the shade of the main lodge’s thatched roof here at Wilderness Tented Camp in the Okavango Delta. The ceiling fan above my head feels great. The temperatures during this morning’s game drive were nice and cool. As always we are split into two jeeps only this morning instead of us both going out on simultaneous game drives, one group started off on the mokoro canoes in the Delta while the rest of us kicked off the morning with some game viewing.

As we drove along the bumpy dirt roads we saw a dazzle of zebras running and watched an elephant using its trunk to sling mud over its back to keep cool. Most of the areas we drove in were grassy and flat. Like in Chobe, most of the trees in the Delta, are broken down by elephants and bare due to the lack of rain. One of the women from our group, Donna, said she would love to come back after the spring rains to see all the beautiful green foliage. Our guide “MP” noted that, from a game-viewing perspective, when the trees are in full bloom it’s much more difficult to spot the animals. In fact, it’s practically impossible when they’re at a distance.

Elephant covered in cool mud

After a while, we approached a shallow river. “MP” parked our jeep and we all go out. This is where we were going to begin our mokoro ride: two persons to each mokoro. Standing at the very back of the mokoro is a “poler,” he holds a long pole known as a “ngashi” that he drives down into the ground of the shallow water to maneuver the canoe.

A few of the mokoro “poler” guides ready for us to board.

“MP” leading the caravan of mokoros.

Our ride lasted a little over an hour and from it we saw many different birds (this is the closest we’ve gotten to some of the different storks we’ve seen in the Delta without them flying away), some baboons, zebra, impalas, a roan antelope and two sable antelope – which are rare in this area. The sable were coming to get a drink but as soon as they saw the 5 mokoros moseying along the water, they returned to the trees. Eventually, they reappeared in the clearing and walked up to the water to get a drink.

Beautiful sable antelope reemerging from the clearing.

Red Billed Stork along the water during our mokoro ride

I was talking to Judy today and we both agreed that although these “tents” are by no means 5 star accommodations, the service we’ve been provided by the staff is a perfect 5. Everyone is so friendly and seems to genuinely care about us. Other than my “carry-on” Jack Wolfskin bag (that I bought in Frankfurt, Germany and absolutely love btw), I have never once lifted my suitcase (except for moving it within our tent). Vitals refers to our luggage as “his babies.” He makes sure everything is taken care of and we don’t have to worry about lugging our luggage to the mini bus or airplane or anywhere. OAT is meticulously perfect when it comes to their customer service. They do a great job.

2:42P

What a hot afternoon! Kay is calling it a “heat wave.” She said she makes sure her morning work is done by 9A to avoid the heat. She took us on a “behind the scenes” tour of the staff kitchen, laundry room and garage workshop. It was funny when they took us into the giant cooler room where they stored the food. I jokingly said to Cheryl – “that’s been the best part of the trip so far!” It felt amazing to be in a cold room away from today’s extreme heat. Ha!

I came to our tent and attempted a nap with a cool wet rag over my head. It helps but still I can’t sleep. There are a frequent wind bursts coming through the screens of out tent this afternoon. Maybe they are blowing in either a cooler weather system or possibly some much needed rain. I know a good rain would really make the locals very happy along with all the animals, trees, grass and the poor rivers that are extremely low. I’m going to do some reading before we meet back at the main lodge for “high tea” while our guide “MP” delivers a short educational lecture on the Okavango Delta followed by our evening game drive.

“MP” educating us on the history of the Okavango Delta in the main lodge.

Almost forgot to mention: I woke up around 1:15A last night to pee. I could hear the mating calls of the male lions in the distance. I fell back asleep to it. Funny how that sound has become soothing to me. What a unique privilege. I feel blessed. I think Aaron would really enjoy this place (minus the heat wave).

9:30P

Back in our tent. Once again, the stars tonight are magnificent. We are going to sit out on our front porch for a few minutes despite multiple warnings from our trip leaders and the staff.

The evening game drive was nice because the temperatures could down significantly. Saw another Giant Eagle Owl carefully watching us from it’s tree perch.

Giant Eagle Owl watching us in the Okavango Delta.

The sunset was breathtaking – got some great pics!

Tonight’s sunset in the Okavango Delta, Botswana

Our “sundowner” drinks were served by a large pool of water where some hippos were playing. They were rolling over on their backs sticking their feet up out the water. It was cute. Hard to think of these creatures as threatening or dangerous. After a while, the hippos began to make some grunting noises and in the distance we heard the growl of a lion. Up to that point our guides have always seemed relaxed but let me just say they were rushing to pack everything up and get us all loaded back into the jeeps. Dark was upon us and we headed back to the camp for the traditional dinner.

Dinner was a delicious traditional meal around the “boma” followed by the camp staff choir singing traditional African songs and our travel group performing the “Hokey Pokey.” Fun times!

Somehow the topic of social media came up during dinner and Vitalis explained that people here don’t really use Facebook anymore. Instead they prefer a more “real time” form of social media called “What’s Up.” I’ve never heard of it.

Vitalis jokingly said after dinner: “Folks, I’ve got some very good news! Tomorrow’s wake-up call is at 6A.” Hallelujah! We get to sleep in! HA!! After breakfast we are leaving Botswana and heading to our camp in Zambia via small planes, boat, a bus and another plane.

I want to get a picture with Kay, the facility manager, before we leave. She is really cool. We are also asking for recipes. The food has been amazing, especially, today’s lunch salad of bananas, onions, mayonnaise, yellow curry and parsley. What an odd combination but man was it delicious!

Night night!

December 20, 2015 by Brian

Travel

Trip of a Lifetime: Ultimate Africa: Day 7

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November 9, 2015 – 4:45P

Relaxing on the front porch of our tent watching a warthog leaning down on its front knees eating some grass. They are so funny when they run away too because they run with their tail sticking straight up like a radio antenna.

Today’s game drive felt long as the afternoon hours seared with temperatures nearing 100 degrees (38 degrees celsius). It’s cool when the guide pulls over the jeep to show us animal tracks in the dirt. This morning Paul pointed out a leopard and lion track right beside one another. We saw some cape buffalo and a huge elephant that started directly at us for a while – very cool, then a few giraffes and before we stopped for tea & coffee around 9:30A, both of our jeeps pulled right up to two lionesses resting in the shade.

When we stopped for tea & coffee, the other jeep in our group had a flat tire that Paul, MP and Proctor had to change. We also found an elephant skull laying in the grass. A few of us, including myself, picked it up. It was huge. I got a great pick of me holding it. On these morning coffee & tea breaks I usually request tea. They serve “bush tea” which is a rooibos. I take mine with warm milk.

Morning tea on our game drive in the Okavango Delta.

(Now the warthog is walking towards us). By the time we returned to our camp were all felt dazed and dehydrated from the heat and the only water in our water bottles was warm. I headed straight for our tent and downed the entire pitcher of ice cold water. Took of my shirt and laid face-up on the bed with a cold washrag over my head. That really helped. I had the oscillating floor fan directed on me but soon realized it was just blowing around the hot air (sigh). My camera battery had died (TIP: pack spare batteries) so I missed shots of all the wildebeests we saw but did get a vid of the zebras running across the road in front of us with my iPhone. Very cool! We also saw a parade of elephants on our way back. Oh, plus, when we stopped for lunch a dozen, or so, elephants walked into the pool of water just a few yards away. They were gathering there to cool off, taking up water into their trunks and then spraying it up into the air so it fell down on top of their bodies like taking a shower. It was funny because the guides were trying to serve lunch while we were all distracted snapping dozens of photos of these fascinating elephants.

Elephants spraying water to cool off in the hot Delta sun.

On two separate occasions we came across a stride of giraffes, one stride, of which, was gathered along a river and in order to lean down for a drink they had to spread out their legs. That was one of my favorite pics I’ve taken so far!

Giraffes in the Okavango Delta, Botswana

Such curious creatures. Notice the giraffe to the right; neck stretched out and peering directly at the camera.

We also came across a pride of 5 lionesses calmly shading themselves beneath a toothbrush tree but the highlight was finding two male cheetahs (believed to be brothers) keeping cool and well-camouflaged under a bush. Our guide Paul pulled the jeep right up to the bush and the cheetahs became edgy. They soon took off, springing into the air and running to another bush. But that didn’t stop Paul. He started back up our engine and slowly drove right up to the cheetah’s new resting place. Not long after the second jeep, carrying the remainder of our group, arrived. We all just sat there watching these stunning creatures. Paul said that cheetahs haven’t been seen in the Okavango Delta since April, so we were very fortunate to have witnessed this sighting. Wow! What a discovery for our group. Again, felt very privileged. The cheetahs left that bush and went to a third, and it was no surprise that Paul and the other jeep’s driver “MP” followed. Finally, the cheetahs seemed to be calming down and realizing our jeeps were not a threat. We sat there for a long time. It was hot but no one seemed to care. These animals were so beautiful.

Cheetahs hiding amongst the leaves and looking out for lunch.

Looks like one of them may have spotted something (no pun intended – haha!)

(The warthog was just staring right at us and when I stood up to grab my camera, he took off).

Our drive back to camp was painfully long (or, at least, felt so due to the heat). We passed through a small village known as Khwai, which is actually the village Proctor is from. Most of the homes were wood framed with walls made of mud from termite mounds. The roofs were thatched. Some buildings, like the school, the boma (meeting place) and two “shopping centers” which were no bigger than a 2 or 3 car garage, had cement walls and corrugated metal roofs. It was cool seeing this village up close and you could tell that Proctor was so proud to show us. Unfortunately, my camera battery died as we were driving into Khwai.

A thatch-roofed hut in the village of Khwai, Botswana.

I am enjoying talking to all the local people we meet who work at the camps and I’m amazing by how many of them have never left Botswana – not even for “holiday.” (Now, two enormous cape buffalo have entered the field outside our tent to graze). The facility manager’s name is Kay. She is awesome. She shared with us that she has travelled to San Francisco and worked at Walt Disney World. She got a HUGE smile on her face as she told us. She said she loved both experiences.

It’s now shortly after 5P and dinner (a “surprise”) is being served at 6P – very excited! I’m enjoying the view now. Later! (Now there are 3 hungry warthogs a few yards away from us eating the grass).

Two of the three hungry warthogs right in front of our “tent.”

9:00P

Bedtime. Exhausted. Dinner was tasty and for dessert they served a pancake with chocolate syrup – yum!). It’s been great getting to know our traveling companions (their backgrounds and interests) and hearing them share all their other amazing OAT travel experiences.

There are so many stars out tonight going all the way down to the treeline. I wish my camera could capture night shots. It’s just amazing how clear the sky is here.

P.S. Today was our hottest afternoon yet – reaching 103. Thank God for Vitalis suggesting wetting a washrag with cool water from the sink in your tent. It really does wonders. Some of the women form our group said they drenched their bath towel in cold water and laid down in bed with it over their entire body. They said it felt amazing!

December 18, 2015 by Brian

In 1940's rural Mississippi, identical thirteen-year-old twins Jimmy and Billy McGee will play the most important game of their young lives. Challenged by their cross-town enemies to decide once and for all domain over their neighborhood baseball diamond, the boys and an entertaining crew of unique friends are determined to maintain control over their territory. But there's one unexpected dilemma. Their rivals will not accept that the boys' best friend and the team spark plug is black. And suddenly the twins are faced with a decision that will forever shape their lives and how their friends, family and the entire community perceive them.